The RunOut Podcast

Our latest bonus episode just dropped on Patreon. 🫣

This is a Must Listen conversation with Josh Wharton, one of the best all-around climbers on earth. We discuss the Dark Arts that top climbers use to be faster and more efficient on big routes, and the rationale behind balancing non-conventional tactics with safety and risk.

Even in this economy it’s not a lot of money to support your favorite podcast and get access to bonus content like this. Thank you!

Dropping tomorrow:

New interview with the mighty Josh Wharton. We go through a list of techniques and tactics that top climbers are using to improve their speed and efficiency on big routes. These “dark arts” can’t be found in any how-to book but they are quickly becoming standard practice.

Join us at Patreon.com/runoutpodcast to get this episode when it launches and access our archive of full episodes and bonus content.

Astra Lincoln astra is a writer, creative researcher, and self-described futurist working at the intersection of people, power, and place. She’s won Banff’s best article award twice and been a finalist for the Yale Nonfiction Book Prize, and before all that she worked as a pastry chef, a wilderness trail mason, and a glacial ecologist. Her first novel is on the way. And her latest article is a profile of the legendary Michael Kennedy, which is printed in the latest issue of Summit Journal, #325. Michael Kennedy Summit Journal

But first, the show hosts catch up on some 20 year old beef that no one can remember, and then dive into the latest autobelay horror story.

Our final bit comes from the incredibly talented Craig Muderlak — an illustrator, painter, musician and award-winning filmmaker, whose work is inspired by a desire to explore a connection to expansive landscapes. Check out Craig’s artwork and please pick up one of his prints. Craig Muderlak

Andres Marin Andres Marin is a mountain guide, alpinist, and competitive ice climber who’s originally from Columbia, but is a longtime resident of Ouray, Colorado. His passion is expedition climbing, and he’s completed notable first ascents around the world including in Kyrgzstan and Peru. We talk about a wildfire that nearly destroyed his town, affecting the climbing and local communities alike, as well as other catastrophes and disasters around the world. Despite being such a depressing conversation, Andres, with his usual humor and positive disposition, brings hope and light to the frontlines of these issues.

But first, your hosts convene on relationships in life and climbing.

The final bit is a little ditty from Sweet Jessup and the Dirty Buckets.

Listen now where you get your podcasts 🫡

Liv Ogier Liv Ogier recently completed the first ascent of Yellow Sun (5.14d), an extension to Tommy Caldwell’s Kryptonite at the Fortress of Solitude. As a former comp climber, her choice to project at one of Colorado’s most remote and challenging sport crags resulted in numerous days and nights of challenging conditions that are more often associated with alpinism than sport climbing. But the result of her efforts landed her among a very small and select group of women who have established first ascents of routes rated 5.14d.

But first, your grumpy hosts grump about climbing.

Our final bit is pure poetry from Victor McConnell Victor McConnell

Check out the episode where you get your podcasts and join us on Patreon.com/runoutpodcast to support the show and get BONUS content 🙏

Erik Murdock is the deputy director at the Access Fund, climbing’s national advocacy organization. Today we’re encouraging climbers to submit their comments on the climbing management proposals for federal lands. Check out the show notes for all the links.

But first, the show’s ailing hosts navigate a new world order of safe space climbing, from the local choss heap to one of the most iconic piece of granite in the country.

The final bit is a song titled Odds of Dawn, written and performed by our super talented friend Andy Mann, a National Geographic photographer, director, musician, and climber. Andy Mann

Access Fund Erik Murdock

Snake D**e has been a simmering bolt war for the past few years, and so we revisit the conversation around this lightning rod route.

We are also psyched to have a conversation with Cameron King, Yosemite’s climbing program supervisor, and Greg Stock, the park’s resident geologist, about Snake D**e, but all the other issues and phenomena of Yosemite Valley, from fixed ropes to cracks that appear overnight as if by divine intervention.

New episode out now!

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, widely regarded as one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. He’s best known for pushing very hard sport routes, including numerous 5.15 ascents. This year he’s on track to reaching 100 routes rated 9a or harder. 🤯

But first, we discuss the latest local drama, from price hikes to redtags, and what it all means when you have to watch some kid put down the hackysack long enough to hike your project. 🚩

Last, Kalous closes things out with his acoustic rendition of the 1972 soft-rock classic “Brandy(You’re a Fine Girl)” — reimagined for climbing.

We’re a listener supported show. To show your support, become a Rope Gun and you’ll get bonus content and full episodes. It’s not much but it means a lot. Thank you! Patreon.com/runoutpodcast

What good is finger strength if you don’t know how to use it?

Lillian Frances is a self-produced indie pop star based in LA who has written a new manual called Finger Banging For Climber Boys* (And Everyone Else). We discuss all things digital stimulation and and celebrate centering female pleasure.

But first, what gets you stoked in climbing right now? Yer hyped-up hosts review some of the latest climbing news to surf the swell of stoke.

For today’s final bit, of course, we’re bringing back our guest Lillian Frances with her song Touching You. Follow and and see the links in her bio to get her book, listen to her music, and support her art as she’s incredibly talented, smart, and hilarious!

To access full episodes, receive bonus content, and listen to our full archive, join us on Patreon. For just $5.14/month or less you can become a rope gun and keep the podcast running. Patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Matt Samet is a sport-climbing pioneer, climbing lifer, writer, editor, and literary icon. His new role at the American Alpine Club is launching the American Climbing Journal, an annual perfect-bound book documenting the biggest and most interesting ascents of the year.

But first, what would it take to get you to quit climbing? Kalous briefly dreams of taking the easy way out before Bisharat knocks some sense into him, as per usual.

Last but never least, our final bit comes from climber Stefan Levinson, stage name WITHANEFF and the track Are Zombies Happy.

🍄 Want to boost your RunOut run time? Join us on Patreon! We’re completely listener supported. For no more than $5.14 a month, you can do your part to keep our podcast running. 🏃