Controlpro Electrical

Latest project finished Northlink campus Wingfield,comprised of lecture rooms & workshops plus 120mm main feeder cable, (tough pulling that one in 192 meters).

With the current water crisis people are installing boreholes / wellpoints, the electrical circuit for these can be as follows :-
* Main DB in house circuit on E/leakage unit with an isolator adjacent to pump .
* Pool pump DB on E/leakage unit with any of the following provisions :-
1 - If DB or disconnector not in line of sight , must be lockable in the off position .
2 - Isolator adjacent to pump.
3 - Socket outlet adjacent to pump.
* Regarding the wiring therof I personally prefer the following methods :-
1 - 2,5mm armoured cable installed on surface ie ;- wall or in ground 500mm deep.
2 - 2,5mm surfix / twin&earth cable or GP wires in a conduit installed on surface or in ground 500mm deep / just under paving is also ok .
3 - 2,5mm surfix in ground or surface , but protected with conduit etc where damage may occur.

* NOTE * do not connect it to the nearest lighting circuit because it may be easier to get too.

Still on the topic with regard to the issue of an Electrical C.o.C....The electrician will first perform an inspection of the premises , this involves an inspection fee to be payed regardless of outcome , if the premises are up to regulation a C.o.C can be issued.
If any items are found to be not to regulation,this will be priced out separate to the inspection fee , if at this point you reject the quote & call in another electrical contractor ,the whole process starts again & you will be recharged accordingly .

When asking for a C.o.C to be issued for your premises electrical system , it is important to note that it doe`s not cover the following :-
* The appliance itself ie : Stove - Geyser element/thermostat etc.
*Light fittings - Globes .
*Pool pump-Borehole pump-Gate/garage motors.
# Only the EARTHING aspect thereof.
*It essentially covers the DB panel , socket outlets
,light switches , isolators & the wiring up to said appliances and is deemed to be ELECTRICALLY SAFE .
* Having said that the wiring codes are a bit ambiguous and open to different interpretations & most estate agents will require you to fix faulty items as a prerequisite to selling , the C.o.C issuing electrician will also like relevant items fixed to avoid unnessary comebacks & conflict.

To better understand your electricity bill,you are charged per Kwhr ( kilowatt hour is 1000 watts ) example :- if your 1 Kw pool pump runs for 1 hour thats 1 x Kwhr / unit . so if your pump runs for 6 hours a day for 30 days = 180 Kwhr / units at the applicable Eskom rate & levies.

Don`t pull your appliances out by the cord , this will damage the outlet over time , also best to switch it off first to prevent any Arcing.

Check all your extension cords for damage periodically , if a fault occurs the resultant surge can blow sensitive equipment, repair or replace .

If you still have filament / halogen globes on a dimmer switch and thinking of upgrading to LED , your dimmer module will most likely be incompatible ( doing it own thing ) you will need to get them replaced - also ensure globes are dimmable .

Regarding your wall socket outlets,try not to use extender multi plug units as these can lead to overloading & possible fire hazard, if you do buy get the better ones which include a trip or circuit breaker .

Test your earth leakage unit often by pushing the test button ( just make sure you have nothing important running ie:- computor etc ) if it fails to trip get it replaced ASAP this device can save you & your families life .