Engine Pro

Shop Solutions aren't just about machining; they're about giving back.

Some of our most dedicated Shop Solutions contributors have turned the Visa gift cards they earn into opportunities to help others. Instead of keeping the rewards for themselves, they've donated to food pantries, supported animal rescue organizations, helped local families in need, and contributed to student activities and school trips.

It is a reminder that the impact of our industry reaches far beyond the shop. Every act of generosity strengthens the communities that support our businesses and the people who keep this industry moving forward.

How has your shop given back to your local community? We'd love to hear your story. And if you have a shop tip to share, submit it at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

Sometimes the best raw material is already sitting in your toolbox.

When you need to make a locating dowel, plug, or other custom part from round stock, finding the exact diameter can be a challenge. Instead of reaching for an old bolt or valve stem, try keeping a set of inexpensive transfer punches on hand. They're highly machinable and provide a wide range of precision diameters, giving you ready-to-use stock for countless shop-made parts.

It's a simple addition that can save time and eliminate the hunt for the right material when a custom piece is needed.

What's the most unexpected item you've repurposed into a useful shop tool or component? Share your tip with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

Sometimes it's the little tricks that make a big difference.

If you're running an older boring stand where the bar rides directly on the engine deck, dry Teflon lubricant can be a simple way to improve the process. It lets the bar slide smoothly without scratching freshly machined surfaces—and unlike wet lubricants, it won't attract chips and abrasive dust that can cause more problems than they solve.

For shops that square the decks before boring to ensure the cylinders are perfectly perpendicular to the main centerline, it's an easy way to help protect that freshly machined surface while you work.

What shop trick has made your machining process smoother or more efficient? Share it with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

Sometimes the simplest shop upgrades save the most time.

While a 4-jaw chuck is great for precision work, it isn't always the fastest option for small parts. By machining a custom spud for a small 4-jaw chuck and holding it in the lathe's 3-jaw, setup becomes quicker without sacrificing accuracy.

It's a simple modification that speeds up repetitive precision jobs and keeps the work moving.

What's the best time-saving tool or shop modification you've made? Share your shop tip with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

Sometimes the right tool doesn't exist... so you make it.

While setting up a special set of cylinder heads, finding a spring seat cutter pilot that wouldn't damage the guides proved to be a challenge. After trying three different pilots and seeing more than .005" of runout, it was clear a better solution was needed.

The answer came from an unlikely source: a Chevy oil pump shaft. The material is excellent for making custom pilots and shop tools, and with a little machining, it produced a pilot that ran under .001".

What's the most useful tool you've built from spare parts? Have a shop tip of your own? Share it with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

Flat tappet cam break-in has become one of the biggest nerve-racking moments in engine building.

With cam failures seeming more common than ever, every advantage matters. One trick is preheating the oil before startup to improve flow from the first revolution. Adding an extra quart of oil can also increase splash lubrication, helping keep critical components fed during those crucial first minutes.

Reducing spring pressure or using lower-ratio rockers during break-in are proven strategies, too. And for added insurance, some builders machine a lubrication flat into flat tappet lifters to help direct more oil where it's needed most.

What break-in techniques have helped you keep flat tappet cams alive? Have a shop tip of your own? Share it with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

Protecting the guide bore starts before the guide moves⚙️

When removing valve guides from an air-cooled cylinder head, try cutting the guide flush with the spring pad before pressing it out toward the port. By removing the protruding portion first, you reduce the chance of the guide expanding as it's driven through the bore.

This simple step can help prevent damage to the cylinder head and make guide replacement go much smoother.

What techniques have helped you save hard-to-find cylinder heads from unnecessary damage? Have a shop tip of your own? Share it with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

Tight ring lands in used pistons can be a real challenge!

Carbon buildup, rust, or even slightly pinched ring grooves can make cleaning and reusing pistons difficult. One simple trick is to save old piston rings and use them as scrapers. For even better results, apply a generous amount of fine lapping compound and work the ring back and forth through the groove.

What tricks have earned a permanent spot in your engine-building routine? Have a shop tip of your own? Share it with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

SAVE YOUR FINGERS 🔥🖖

A simple tool swap can save your hands.

When cleaning head bolts and other small parts on the wire wheel, try using a valve seal puller as a holder. It gives you a solid grip, keeps your fingers away from the heat, and makes handling small parts a whole lot easier.

Sometimes the best shop hacks come from using a tool for more than one job.

What tool in your shop has found a second purpose? Have a shop tip of your own? Share it with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/

⚙️Damper fit is one of those details that’s easy to overlook, but it matters.

Too loose, and the damper can walk on the crank snout and cause galling.
Too tight, and both surfaces can be damaged during installation, reducing contact area and damper effectiveness.

One simple trick for dual key dampers:
Fill the keyways with auto body filler before honing and let it harden overnight. It creates a smooth surface that makes honing much easier, and it pops right out afterward with a screwdriver or punch.

We also use extreme pressure l**e on both the snout and damper during install to help protect the surfaces from damage.

What small engine-building details do you never skip? Have a shop tip of your own? Share it with us at enginepro.com/submit-a-tip/