Tech Time With Thomas LLC

Worked on fourPS5 controllers this evening - original issue was analog drift. Analogs replaced and calibrated.

Items - Xbox One X (two)

Console #1 - no video, redriver IC had an attempted replacement without the correct tools. Replaced

Console #2 had a gouge on the bottom side of the board that resulted in a damaged DRAM trace. Repaired with 44 AWG wire, then masked off.

Both consoles repaired.

Nice easy repair today for a local customer.

Xbox Series S with a busted HDMI port.

Easy job - 45 minutes from start to finish. New port, thermal paste and the console was dusted out. Happy customer.

Interposer boards are back in stock!

https://techtimewiththomas.myshopify.com/products/xbox-one-x-alternative-ddc-booster-ic

Faulty charge port? I have you covered! Expertly replaced these two USB-C charge ports on the Nintendo Switch Lite. Consoles repaired.

Item: Xbox One X

Issue: intermittent video; customer reports bad HDMI port.

Diagnosis: HDMI port appears to be fine, no broken pins. On-screen video shows green pixelated area in upper left corner of the screen - tell tale signs the HDMI redriver is failing.
Replaced IC with new. Console appears operational. Repaired!

Item: Nintendo Switch HAC-001
Issue: Won't charge.

Physical examination of the USB-C port showed that a single pin was bent. I proceeded to disassemble the console and replaced the port. Customer's Nintendo Switch has been repaired. The unit charges with the USB-C cable and also displays video when docked to the TV. It's ready for many more years of gaming!

Item: Nintendo Switch - OLED
Issue: Won’t display in TV when docked.
The USB-C port was fine - breakout board confirmed port side measurements were OK. Found one set of RF chokes for the SBU pins. Repaired. Penny for scale.

Item: LG 27G83A 27" gaming monitor
Symptoms: No power
Status: Repaired

This unit belongs one of my friends - it was good to catch up for a little bit! It's been years!

I removed the back shell and the main board from the chassis. The power entry section (near the power connector, right hand edge) showed a dead short between the 19V rail and ground.

I removed the caps and input diode from the right hand side. This made zero difference. It was still shorted.

I connected my external bench supply to the board and injected 1.1 Volts @ 2 Amps into the board. The board is drawing 1.40 Amps.

I used my thermal camera to see which component(s) are shorted/heating up and found a capacitor in the lower left hand corner glowing like a Christmas tree.

The cap was removed, the short went away. I replaced this with a 22 uF 50 V capacitor. Repaired.

I plugged in the power supply, the power button illuminated! The monitor turns on. This was then tested with a console as a video source.

Repaired!