Turfmaster Inc.

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Spring is here and we are looking for a qualified irrigation tech to become part of our family. We service residential and commercial accounts. We have an awesome team, but we just need you. Please contact Tim Murray @ 901-795-4301 for more information.

Keep your strawberries fresh. Farmer reveals expert tips to avoid spoilage

Stop buying strawberries. Use these 7 brilliant tips to grow them at home instead Strawberries are synonymous with summer. But your obsession can be pricey! Here's how to easily grow them at home.

The term “rain garden” is a bit of a misnomer. Sounding like it is some kind of a water-logged bog, a rain garden, in fact, is a slightly sunken garden designed to capture storm-water runoff. Rain gardens can alleviate erosion on your property while trapping fertilizers, pesticides, and organic pollutants, like grass clippings, before they wash down storm drains; from there, they can enter creeks and streams and cause algal blooms, reducing available oxygen for fish and other animals. Rain gardens to the rescue! Water is trapped and pollutants are removed by plant roots and the garden’s filter bed. Once caught in the filter bed, earthworms and micro-organisms ingest and neutralize these contaminants.

A rain garden can be as simple or elaborate as you like, and it can be installed in less than a day. Think of this: If everyone with a yard planted a rain garden, polluted runoff coming from residential neighborhoods would be substantially reduced.

To learn more, navigate here: https://www.finegardening.com/article/how-to-design-a-rain-garden

Winter is a good time to prune deciduous trees while they are leafless and you can see the structure of the tree more clearly.

When pruning, you must have a clear idea of what you are trying to accomplish. Ask yourself why you feel the tree needs to be pruned, and then carefully consider which branches need to be cut to achieve your goal.

Here’s what to do for pruning a larger branch:

— Locate the bark ridge and branch collar (see diagram). Your final cut will be made according to where these structures are.

— Small branches may be removed with one cut. Make your cut just to the outside of the branch collar. If the branch collar is not apparent, find the bark ridge. Make your cut beginning at the outside top of the bark ridge and coming down at a 45-degree angle from the ridge. This will preserve the branch collar. Make a clean, smooth cut with a sharp saw. As you begin to complete the cut, hold the branch to support it until the cut is complete. This will prevent the branch from stripping away bark as it falls.

— If the limb is large, remove the branch with three cuts. First, cut about one-third of the way through the limb on the underside, approximately 8 inches from the trunk. Then, placing the saw a little farther out from the trunk on the topside, saw off the entire limb. The limb will break off at the first cut, preventing the limb from pulling away bark when it breaks away.

— The final cut to remove the remaining stub is made starting just outside of the bark ridge and sawing down at about a 45-degree angle from the bark ridge. This will leave a slight lip and preserve the branch collar. Never leave stubs on a tree when pruning branches. Chances of rot and decay development are quite high in hardwood species if the branch stub remains on the tree.

— The use of tree paints to seal the wound is not recommended. Research shows that such materials do not promote rapid healing or deter bacteria or fungi and may actually impede healing.
Read the AgCenter's full article on pruning trees: https://tinyurl.com/PruningTreesinLA