Bardabe Performance

2.8L short block cleaned, blue printed and documented.

Actual assembly is quick, the real time suck is the blueprinting process. Having a good machinist is a big deal, documenting your assembly and process is equally important. Why document? It’s a multi-layered answer. The last few weeks have been abnormally stressful but we keep pushing.

To all of you in my corner, the biggest thank you.

Hump day

Ft. &

The airbox has landed. We will be doing some thorough testing together. Initial impression is phenomenal as ever. Texas “spring” is just what we needed to compare results of the OE box, open filters and then this beauty.

Beware Long dyno post: Drop in twins, cams and efficiency. This post is to share the data and show you guys how much a properly setup car affects your overall power output and power-band. (Not to mention reliability) for clarification all 3 cars have the same exact Turbos, fuel system, ecu, exhaust sizing, and supporting mods. So slide with me.

Slide 1: My street car, bone stock engine, short nose crank, Nismo R3 turbos, Link ECU, IDX1050, HKS hard pipe kit, aluminum turbo inlets, Apex’i Suction Kit, HPI turbo outlets, HPI downpipe, Apex’i N1 exhaust. 93 octane. Solid 380+ whp on a bone stock engine.

Slide 2: Same mods as above only difference is trigger kit, radium fuel rail & Tomei Japan Poncam type B (260 duration 9.15 lift) 425whp this supports the same results I’ve seen across other setups with these cams.

Slide 3:Just like my car same setup, plus a trigger kit except this car has my Reimax cylinder head package. (256duration & less lift at 8.56mm). 475whp

All 3 cars were on the dyno in RWD mode, all 3 cars in close loop boost control, all 3 cars targeting 1.2 bar. All 3 cars having a stock bottom end. All 3 cars pump 93 Why the 100whp spread between the 3?

Slide 4: stock cams vs drop in cams
Slide 5: drop in cams vs Bardabe Reimax head
Slide 6: stock head vs Bardabe Reimax head.

The big difference in power really does come from a properly setup engine & turbo, using components that are matched well and experienced hands making it all come together properly.

Project: 91BNR32

Chris’ BNR32 has a rear subframe again. After re-enforcing the subframe we pressed in brand new Nismo bushings on the subframe, differential & rear spindle. Brand new Nismo LCA, traction links, & sway bars. Cusco camber link & HICAS delete to bring it all together. Can anyone spot the Spoon parts in this R32 GT-R? Gotta make sure this car can put down all sauce it’s going to be making.

Skyline GT-R BNR32, the only Godzilla.

and I first met in 2007 when I was living in North Carolina. Helped him with some pretty cool projects and almost 20 years later here we are again. This time he shipped me the engine harness from his Y33 so that we can change the ECU connector for that of a Haltech Elite 2500. I also added Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, Flex Fuel, Bosch Wideband Knock Sensor, Bosch Motorsport TMAP & DBW capability.

Once he gets the harness in we can confirm a few uncertainties from the OE ECU pinout / wiring diagrams that were available. Nissan really did do some weird wiring in the early VQ era.

Nice little outing with this morning. Quick blast down the toll road then hit up for some coffee and hangs. The race car is super dope but having a street car to drive any time was much needed for the mental health.

Doing a little bit of suspension recondition to help put down the power of the new powerhouse that is about to be.

Project: 91BNR32

Getting the engine bay back together after paint. Installing a Midori Seibi R134a Aircon kit and relocating the fuse boxes for a cleaner look under the hood. I remember doing my first fuse box relocation over 20 years ago now. I’ve also included dual relays for the headlamps now so that we don’t have to worry about cooking the headlamp switch.