Customs and Classics

Customs and Classics

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Specializing in body and paint work, engine bay and undercarriage detailing, engine and carburetor rebuilding, and metal fabrication.

Suspension, brake, wiring and interior repair or replacement also available. Please call us for more details!

12/25/2025

Just two 1970 Twister Ranchero 429 cars were produced. For decades it was thought that there were four 351 cars constructed. Wes, working with Marti Auto Works, found there were the two 429s produced with consecutive VINs, and released the information in his book Lost Muscle Cars. It was with this information that this car was discovered in a field outside Topeka, KS. Here's the car in the barn finds at the Muscle Car & Corvette Nationals.

Perfect parking 🤣 08/04/2025

When times get slow….

Perfect parking 🤣

In this video I'm continuing the restoration on my 1973 Datsun 240Z. In the last video the car was blasted, primed and also high build primer was applied.

After a few weeks of curing the high build primer it was time to start preparing the car for the final paint job. The complete car and all its parts were block sanded. To see low spots better a dry guide coat was applied. Sanding is needed until all low spots are gone, but you need to stop sanding once you reach bare metal. If there are still low spots after that, means it needs body filler. Sometimes also a few light hammer hits could also help. On all the spots with body filler and bare metal was epoxy primer applied. Doors, fenders, hood and tailgate looked still a bit rough after that step. That's why another coat of high build primer came on for the final fine sanding with 320 grit. After this step the paint had 2 months time to properly cure before the actual paint job. During that time I applied seam sealer and sealed all gaps and everything where water could get trapped. I also installed sound deadening on the inside of the car. It's extra made to be painted, this way I'm having it like it was original.

Right before the paint all surfaces were fine sanded with 400 grit. First the chassis was on the rotisserie to apply the undercoating. Then the car was painted underneath, inside and the engine bay. First one closed layer of the right grey shade was applied, after around 30 minutes 2-3 coats of base coat was applied. I choosed an original Datsun color: Datsun 920 Safari Gold. The color was adjusted a little bit to have more pop, the original one was a bit pale and too brownish. To finish the paint job, two nice coats of clear coat were applied. The car then came off the rotisserie to paint the outside. Once the chassis was done all the remaining parts were painted. For the rear panels, spoilers, grille and wheels I picked a nice anthracite called Daytona Grey. All these parts were covered by a matte clear coat. The dark parts fit very nice with the mustard yellow ones in my opinion, they have a very nice contrast.

This was such a big journey to come to this point and I'm very happy to finally have the car painted. It took 48 days of work for all the work you can see in that 13 minutes video.

I hope you like my work and enjoy the video.

Thanks to Glasurit for sponsoring all the paint:
https://www.glasurit.com/de-ch/classic-car-colors 07/20/2025

In this video I'm continuing the restoration on my 1973 Datsun 240Z. In the last video the car was blasted, primed and also high build primer was applied. After a few weeks of curing the high build primer it was time to start preparing the car for the final paint job. The complete car and all its parts were block sanded. To see low spots better a dry guide coat was applied. Sanding is needed until all low spots are gone, but you need to stop sanding once you reach bare metal. If there are still low spots after that, means it needs body filler. Sometimes also a few light hammer hits could also help. On all the spots with body filler and bare metal was epoxy primer applied. Doors, fenders, hood and tailgate looked still a bit rough after that step. That's why another coat of high build primer came on for the final fine sanding with 320 grit. After this step the paint had 2 months time to properly cure before the actual paint job. During that time I applied seam sealer and sealed all gaps and everything where water could get trapped. I also installed sound deadening on the inside of the car. It's extra made to be painted, this way I'm having it like it was original. Right before the paint all surfaces were fine sanded with 400 grit. First the chassis was on the rotisserie to apply the undercoating. Then the car was painted underneath, inside and the engine bay. First one closed layer of the right grey shade was applied, after around 30 minutes 2-3 coats of base coat was applied. I choosed an original Datsun color: Datsun 920 Safari Gold. The color was adjusted a little bit to have more pop, the original one was a bit pale and too brownish. To finish the paint job, two nice coats of clear coat were applied. The car then came off the rotisserie to paint the outside. Once the chassis was done all the remaining parts were painted. For the rear panels, spoilers, grille and wheels I picked a nice anthracite called Daytona Grey. All these parts were covered by a matte clear coat. The dark parts fit very nice with the mustard yellow ones in my opinion, they have a very nice contrast. This was such a big journey to come to this point and I'm very happy to finally have the car painted. It took 48 days of work for all the work you can see in that 13 minutes video. I hope you like my work and enjoy the video. Thanks to Glasurit for sponsoring all the paint: https://www.glasurit.com/de-ch/classic-car-colors

In this video I start doing all the bodywork on the car to get it ready for blasting. This is the first half of it. The second half is coming next week in episode 3. First I vacuumed the whole car and removed the sound deadening. Next I needed to remove the undercoating on the rotisserie. I used an infrared lamp and a scraper to remove it. I also did the same on the fenders. Now the car is ready to get all dents removed by my friend from parkbeulen.ch. All panels were quickly reassembled to the chassis and the car back on jack stands. He was able to remove all dents from the complete car in just one day. Now it's time to start doing all the bodywork. I started with closing the holes from the side markers. They're not mandatory in Switzerland and I prefer the clean look. Then I drilled four new holes in both fenders to install some fender mirrors. I really like that japanese style of them, you can't see much, but it's just about the look. That means I don't need the door mirror anymore, so I closed both holes. Working on the door I saw two holes from the inside. I quickly discovered body filler and a big dent around these two holes. I sanded it all off, welded the holes, ground it flush and hammered it until the dent was completely removed. I also found the same on the passenger door. I think they drilled these holes so the filler holds better. I also fitted a new BRE style front spoiler to it. In the rear I found two areas where a tiny bit of rust was shining through. I decided to drill all spot welds off and remove the panel. What a good decision that was, a bunch of rust came to light underneath. I removed everything, applied some weld through primer and welded the panel back on the car. One of the clips that hold the rear panel was broken off. I bough new ones, but couldn't replace it. I needed to drill the little bracket off, make four new ones and weld them back on the car. I had to be careful when welding, so the clip doesn't get too hot and ruin the heat treatment of the spring steel. After the rear panel section was done, I moved on with the tailgate. As I'm replacing the old flimsy and broken rear spoiler I needed to close all the holes from it in the tailgate. So I started sanding the paint off for welding. I then quickly discovered more body filler and a bunch of more holes from the old emblems. I welded them all, ground flush and drilled new holes for the new spoiler. To remove the wobbly effect on the tailgate I removed the original support piece and welded in a much stronger version. As I won't install the roll bar anymore, I closed all 16 holes from it. Now it's time to move to the rusted rocker panel. I just started to remove it and found a lot more rust hidden behind it. As this video is already a bit long, I decided to continue and finish the bodywork in another episode, coming next week. The complete bodywork on this car took me around 110 days in the workshop. It was much more work that I ever could expect after I disassembled the car. I recorded a total of 1500 clips. 07/20/2025

Another cool video that shows the restoration process.

In this video I start doing all the bodywork on the car to get it ready for blasting. This is the first half of it. The second half is coming next week in episode 3. First I vacuumed the whole car and removed the sound deadening. Next I needed to remove the undercoating on the rotisserie. I used an infrared lamp and a scraper to remove it. I also did the same on the fenders. Now the car is ready to get all dents removed by my friend from parkbeulen.ch. All panels were quickly reassembled to the chassis and the car back on jack stands. He was able to remove all dents from the complete car in just one day. Now it's time to start doing all the bodywork. I started with closing the holes from the side markers. They're not mandatory in Switzerland and I prefer the clean look. Then I drilled four new holes in both fenders to install some fender mirrors. I really like that japanese style of them, you can't see much, but it's just about the look. That means I don't need the door mirror anymore, so I closed both holes. Working on the door I saw two holes from the inside. I quickly discovered body filler and a big dent around these two holes. I sanded it all off, welded the holes, ground it flush and hammered it until the dent was completely removed. I also found the same on the passenger door. I think they drilled these holes so the filler holds better. I also fitted a new BRE style front spoiler to it. In the rear I found two areas where a tiny bit of rust was shining through. I decided to drill all spot welds off and remove the panel. What a good decision that was, a bunch of rust came to light underneath. I removed everything, applied some weld through primer and welded the panel back on the car. One of the clips that hold the rear panel was broken off. I bough new ones, but couldn't replace it. I needed to drill the little bracket off, make four new ones and weld them back on the car. I had to be careful when welding, so the clip doesn't get too hot and ruin the heat treatment of the spring steel. After the rear panel section was done, I moved on with the tailgate. As I'm replacing the old flimsy and broken rear spoiler I needed to close all the holes from it in the tailgate. So I started sanding the paint off for welding. I then quickly discovered more body filler and a bunch of more holes from the old emblems. I welded them all, ground flush and drilled new holes for the new spoiler. To remove the wobbly effect on the tailgate I removed the original support piece and welded in a much stronger version. As I won't install the roll bar anymore, I closed all 16 holes from it. Now it's time to move to the rusted rocker panel. I just started to remove it and found a lot more rust hidden behind it. As this video is already a bit long, I decided to continue and finish the bodywork in another episode, coming next week. The complete bodywork on this car took me around 110 days in the workshop. It was much more work that I ever could expect after I disassembled the car. I recorded a total of 1500 clips.

06/28/2025

You guys call it…

Cool or Can’t

06/06/2025

I love louvers! As far as I know, we’re the only shop between St Louis and Memphis with a louver press. Hit us up!

Restoration Chevrolet Impala 1967 #chevy #impala #diecast 03/11/2025

Thanks to Shannon Tinnin for tagging me in this!

Restoration Chevrolet Impala 1967 #chevy #impala #diecast

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