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True enough, more than one train we saw had a sign saying "mildly air-conditioned" on the side. That's not just a great energy-saving measure, says Cath: it helps keep you regulated with the ambient heat.

Apparently, when my wife and I were devouring platefuls of katsu curry, we were being smart. Like many cultures across Asia, the Japanese believe spicy foods can pep up your tired system after a warm day, or even make you sweat, thereby cooling you. There may also be something in the philosophy of eating, and living, in sync with the weather around you. As Cath noted, "You might notice that air-con in public spaces is set to ensure it's not too cold."

"Another important facet of the Yazidi faith is the belief in our oneness with the natural world, which has its roots in ancient nature worship," Mahmood told me. "The black snake on the temple doorway (pictured above) symbolises our respect for Mother Nature; we'd never kill a snake, even if it was venomous."