Shoemaker Real Estate

What is a Whole-House Surge Protector? 06/06/26

A whole-house surge protector is a hardwired device installed at your main electrical panel that intercepts dangerous voltage spikes, diverting excess energy safely into the ground before it reaches your household electronics.

1) These offer comprehensive protection, safeguarding large, expensive appliances such as HVAC systems, refrigerator, washer/dryer. They protect smart electronics that standard power strips cannot (TV & computers).
2) These surge protectors offer layered defense. While it handles massive external surges such as lightning or grid switching, experts still recommend combining it with point of use surge strips for ultimate safety.
3) Mandatory code compliance. The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires whole-house surge protection on all new and upgraded residential services. This became a national code recommendation 6 years ago and became a Hall County code requirement 5 years ago.
4) The cost for a whole-house surge protector varies by brand and amperage. They can range anywhere from $40 to $400. The standard offering runs about $150. Because it requires working directly inside a live electrical panel, professional installation is highly recommended and will typically add another $200-$300 to the cost.

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Tune in tomorrow morning (6/6/26) to hear our guests:

8 AM: Odis Sisk, Green Prism Consulting
9 AM: Kevin Tharpe, Elder Law Attorney

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Tune in tomorrow morning (5/30/26) to hear our guests:

8 AM: Don Helvey, Mold Trust
9 AM: Justin Odom, Dawsonville Metal

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Tune in tomorrow morning (5/23/26) to hear our guests:

8 AM: Scotty Ball; Walker, Ball, and Dimo
9 AM: Jeremy Clayton, Gainesville Mechanical

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Why Are My Doors Not Closing? - 05/16/26

Doors not properly closing is a common problem I find during home inspections. This includes exterior doors as well as interior doors. Here some common problems and fixes:

1) The door rubs against the top or upper side casing. This is generally a sign of settlement. Most of the time it is typical and expected over the years. However, if it is a newer home, that is a sign of something more than typical settlement. It usually is foundation related. You may need to call a professional for further investigation, particularly if found at more than one door.
2) The door rubs against the lower side casing when opening or closing. This is normally a sign the hinges may be loose, most notable the top hinge. Tighten down as needed and test it again.
3) The door drags across the floor when opening and closing. Most of the time this has to do with the floor coverings being changed and the door was never trimmed. I see this a lot when new carpet has been installed and the door was not trimmed at the bottom to accommodate the new thickness. This is also true when installing new hardwood floors. The floor thickness may interfere with the door. On the opposite side, when removing carpet and installing laminate or luxury vinyl plank flooring, you may have a wider air gap under the door when closed. In this case, you should consider installing a sweep plate or extender across the bottom of the door.
4) My door won’t latch when closed. This is caused by a slight misalignment of the plunger in the k**b assembly with the strike-plate on the door casing. Again, this is usually caused by typical settlement over the years. The strike-plate can be adjusted up or down to allow the door to properly latch.

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Tune in tomorrow morning (5/9/26) to hear our guests:

8 AM: Al Sesmas, Al’s Tree Service
9 AM: Frank Norton, The Norton Agency

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When is a Bedroom Not a Bedroom? - 05/09/26

Too many times I have run across a bonus room or flex room advertised as a bedroom. Did you know there are three main criteria needed to technically label a bedroom as a bedroom? Just because there may be a bed in a particular room doesn’t mean it’s a bedroom. This is important because a home may be listed for sale stating there are four bedrooms when there are only three. This can affect home costs. Here are three things to qualify a room to be labeled as a bedroom:
1) The room must have a clothes closet (not a shallow linen closet).

2) The room must have a window that is operational and big enough for a human being to climb thru in event of a fire. No fixed windows.
3) The room must have a heat and A/C source. This should be tied into the HVAC system with vents or should have a dedicated ductless split mini system. When finishing off a basement for bedroom space, makes sure it has a conditioned air source present.

If any one of these three requirements is omitted, the room cannot be labeled as a bedroom. Why is this important. Two reasons; 1) Safety. 2) Taxes and home value. While extra bedrooms bring added money, make sure they are really bedrooms.

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Tune in tomorrow morning (5/9/26) to hear our guests:

8 AM: Bryan Lackey, Gainesville City Manager
9 AM: Chris Earls, Georgia Select Roofing

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Determining the Age of Roof Shingles- 05/02/26

Even the most seasoned professional roofer or home inspector sometimes cannot pinpoint the exact age of a roof. Often it boils down to their best “guesstimate”.

When shopping for a house, pay attention to the Sellers Disclosure Statement as there is a place to disclose the roof age. Sometimes a seller is very confident in recalling when the roof was replaced. However, more times than not, the age of the shingles is a mystery. Here are some ways to “approximate” the age of your shingles.

1) Check for cupping or curling. This generally begins to occur in the 15-20 years range. Brittle shingles also indicate age with a tear test. Pliable or soft shingles suggest they are newer.
2) Check for granular loss. Look in the gutters for excess granules. The bottoms of downspouts also can have a small pile of granules present. This generally indicate the roof is at least 10 years old.
3) Check for fungal staining at the northern exposure of the roof. Heavy stains indicate shingles are generally 12+ years old. Light or early staining doesn’t occur on roof shingles generally until about 7 years old.
4) Look for torn or missing shingles. This may not tell you the age as much as the quality of the installation. Loose nails lead to shingle damage.
5) Check the stack vent boots on the roof. Are they cracked or torn around the neck? Is the black rubber semi shiny or has it turned to a faded gray color? Newer boots have a satin black finish. Old boots are dried out, faded and cracked.
6) Most professional roofers and home inspection reports will provide an “estimated” age. Determining the shingle age is NOT an exact science.

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Shoemaker Real Estate Shoemaker Real Estate offers residential real estate services. Serving Gainesville, GA and beyond, Craig is the perfect real estate agent for your buying or selling journey. An agent when needed, but a resource for life.

Tune in tomorrow morning (5/2/26) to hear our guests:

8 AM: Kevin Stanley
9 AM: Jordan Hussey, J’s Place

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