Oz Hunting And Bows

Picking the right compound bow setup isn’t guesswork—it’s about matching the package to your draw, your intended use, and the accessories that make the difference in the field. In our latest guide on compound bow package selection, we break down how to choose the right components as a system, not a pile of parts, with the practical details experienced shooters actually care about. You’ll also see what to consider for compliance in Australia, so you can buy with confidence from a specialist supplier that understands the real constraints. If you’re serious about getting your bow setup right the first time, this one’s worth your attention.

https://ozhuntingandbows.com.au/blog/?post=compound-bow-package-review-au-buyers

Option Archery Quivalizers are back in stock.
https://ozhuntingandbows.com.au/?s=quivalizer

Getting crossbow bolts “close enough” is where accuracy, consistency, and safety can fall apart. In this guide, we break down how to choose the right bolt type, weight, length, and fit so your setup hits like it should—without guesswork. We also cover the compliance side, because in Australia the legal requirements matter as much as the performance. If you want bolts that suit your bow and your hunt, this is the practical checklist you’ll actually use.

https://ozhuntingandbows.com.au/blog/?post=how-to-choose-crossbow-bolts

Crossbows are powerful tools—so safety can’t be guesswork. This Australian crossbow safety guide breaks down practical handling, storage, and shoot-day checks, with a straight focus on reducing risk and getting consistent performance. It also covers what you need to know about legal compliance in Australia, so you’re operating correctly from the start. Built for serious enthusiasts and club shooters who expect real-world expertise, not generic advice.

Tru Ball shipment is in including the new Ridgepoint Flex thumb release aid. We like the quick load keeper on this button release and how quiet it operates.
https://ozhuntingandbows.com.au/shop/accessories/release-aids-tabs-guards/release-aids/tru-ball-ridge-point-flex-release-aid/

Arizona Archery Products are in. For all that were waiting for the Max Bond glue and the primer pen, we've got heaps in stock as of now.
https://ozhuntingandbows.com.au/?s=aae

How to Choose Arrow Spine Properly

A bow that feels right in the hand can still shoot badly if the arrows are wrong. If you want to know how to choose arrow spine, start with this fact: spine is not a minor spec. It affects clearance, broadhead flight, grouping, forgiveness and, in most cases, whether an arrow is even safe to shoot.

Most spine problems show up as confusing results. One day the bow groups well, the next day broadheads plane off line, bare shafts land wide, or the tune seems to change every time you alter point weight. That usually means the arrow and bow are not working together properly. Getting spine close from the start saves time, components and frustration.

What arrow spine actually means
Arrow spine is the stiffness of the shaft. In practical terms, it tells you how much the arrow bends when force is applied during the shot. A lower spine number, such as 300, means a stiffer shaft. A higher number, such as 500, means a weaker shaft.

That numbering catches a lot of archers out at first. They assume 500 must be stiffer than 300 because the number is bigger. It is the opposite. If you remember that one point, you avoid a lot of bad buying decisions.

There are two parts to this. Static spine is the measured stiffness of the shaft on a test rig. Dynamic spine is how stiff the arrow behaves when you actually shoot it from your bow. Dynamic spine is what matters on the range or in the field, and it changes with your setup.

How to choose arrow spine for your setup
The correct spine is based on a combination of draw weight, arrow length, point weight and bow type. You cannot pick it accurately from draw weight alone.

A heavier draw weight generally needs a stiffer shaft. A longer arrow also behaves weaker, because there is more shaft length to flex. A heavier point weakens dynamic spine as well, because more mass at the front makes the shaft bend more during the launch. On the other hand, cutting the arrow shorter makes it act stiffer.

Bow design matters too. A compound with an aggressive cam can need a different spine outcome than a recurve at a similar peak weight. Centre-shot setup, release style and tune quality all influence how forgiving the final result will be.

That is why spine charts are useful, but not perfect. They are a starting point, not a final answer.

Start with the bow’s real draw weight
Use the actual draw weight at your draw length, not the sticker on the limb or the maximum listed on the bow. If you are shooting a compound set at 70 lb but actually drawing 66 lb on the scale, work from 66 lb. If your recurve limbs are marked at one weight but your longer or shorter draw changes that figure, use the real number.

Getting this wrong pushes the whole calculation off. Many archers buy shafts too stiff or too weak simply because they guessed draw weight instead of measuring it.

Factor in your finished arrow length
Arrow length matters more than many new shooters expect. A shaft cut to 29 inches will behave very differently from the same shaft left at 31 inches. Longer arrows weaken dynamic spine. Shorter arrows stiffen it.

For hunting setups, plenty of shooters leave a bit of extra length for safety and broadhead clearance. That is sensible, but it needs to be considered before you buy shafts. Do not assume you can choose spine first and sort length out later.

Point weight changes the result
If you move from a 100 grain point to a 125 grain point, your arrow will act weaker. If you are running a heavy insert and broadhead combination up front, you may need a stiffer shaft than the basic chart suggests.

This is where some setups get caught out. The spine chart might say one thing for a standard field point, but your finished hunting arrow with insert, collar and broadhead can behave quite differently. For serious hunting rigs, always calculate spine around the actual finished front-end weight.

Common spine ranges and what they mean
You will often see shafts in spines such as 600, 500, 400, 340, 300 and 250. In broad terms, 600 and 500 suit lighter draw weights, while 340, 300 and 250 are used for heavier setups. That said, the exact fit depends on the full build.

A 400 spine might be right for one 60 lb setup and completely wrong for another if the arrow is longer, the point is heavier, or the cam system is more aggressive. There is no universal answer based on the shaft label alone.

This is one reason experienced archers tend to choose arrows as a system rather than as individual parts. Shaft, nock, insert, point and vane size all interact, but spine sits at the center of it.

Signs your arrow spine is too weak or too stiff
A weak arrow often shows itself through poor broadhead flight, inconsistent grouping and tuning problems that do not respond cleanly to small adjustments. You may also see excessive shaft reaction out of the bow, clearance issues, or unexplained left-right impact differences depending on your setup and handedness.

A shaft that is too stiff can also be difficult to tune. Sometimes it will group acceptably with field points but become unforgiving when you start fine-tuning for broadheads or bare shafts. In other cases, it simply never settles into a consistent launch.

The problem is that poor tune, form inconsistency and rest issues can mimic spine problems. That is why spine should be assessed alongside the rest of the setup, not in isolation.

Use the manufacturer chart, then sanity-check it
The practical way to choose spine is to begin with the arrow manufacturer’s chart for your bow type. Enter your actual draw weight and your intended arrow length, then note the recommended range. After that, adjust your thinking based on point weight and use case.

If your setup sits between two spine classes, the safer move for many compound hunting builds is often to lean slightly stiffer rather than weaker, especially if you are running higher poundage or heavier front-end components. For recurves and traditional gear, the decision can be more sensitive to release style, centre shot and tuning method, so a chart alone is less reliable.

If you are right on the edge, buying a few test shafts before committing to a dozen can save money. That is particularly true when you are building a broadhead hunting arrow rather than a basic target setup.

How to choose arrow spine for hunting
For hunting arrows, spine selection needs to account for broadhead control, not just field point groups. A shaft that is marginal on spine might still shoot acceptably with target points, then show its weakness as soon as fixed-blade broadheads go on the front.

That is why hunting setups need less guesswork. Work from real draw weight, final cut length and actual point weight. Include inserts and outserts if they add meaningful front mass. If you are building a heavier arrow for pe*******on and quieter bow reaction, keep in mind that added front weight can weaken dynamic spine enough to change your shaft choice.

Broadly speaking, a well-matched hunting shaft should tune without extreme rest movement, shoot broadheads with control and hold consistency when conditions are less than perfect. If the setup only behaves on calm days or only with one specific point, the spine may be on the edge.

Recurve and traditional bows need extra care
Choosing spine for recurve and traditional archery is more nuanced than for many compound setups. Shelf cut, strike plate thickness, string material and finger release all affect dynamic reaction. Two bows at the same marked weight can prefer different shafts.

That means charts are useful, but tuning feedback matters more. If you shoot recurve or longbow, expect some trial and adjustment. Point weight changes can help, but only within limits. If the shaft is fundamentally the wrong class, tuning tricks will not fix it properly.

Mistakes that waste money
The most common mistake is choosing an arrow by price or availability before checking spine properly. The second is relying on draw weight alone. The third is forgetting that your finished arrow build may not match the chart assumptions.

Another costly mistake is cutting shafts too short too early. Once carbon is removed, you cannot add it back. If you are uncertain, leave a little extra length while testing, then trim carefully if needed.

Where many archers are balancing target use, field use and hunting applications, it pays to sort the setup once and sort it properly. That is generally cheaper than buying a dozen arrows twice.

If you want a clean result, think of spine as the foundation of the arrow build, not an afterthought. Get close on paper, confirm it with the real setup, and let the bow tell you the final truth. That approach saves time, avoids bad habits and gives you an arrow you can trust when the shot matters.
https://ozhuntingandbows.com.au/?s=arrows

Thinking about a crossbow in Victoria and want straight answers? This guide breaks down what’s legal, what to watch for, and how Victoria’s rules can affect real-world ownership and use. We’ve kept it practical and compliance-focused so you can avoid guesswork and choose the right equipment with confidence. If you’re serious about hunting or archery, this is the kind of detail you need before you commit.
https://ozhuntingandbows.com.au/blog/?post=is-crossbow-legal-victoria

https://www.ozhuntingandbows.com.au

Got a few of the new Elite Varos in today. Pete wanted to take that one home right out of the box. The finish on the Elite's fantastic! The Varos is a flagship hunting compound for the 2026 season. This is a 32-inch bow with 338fps that features Elite's new Micro Splitter Timing System, which doesn't require a bow press to correct timing issues.