RowanTree Workshop - making medieval

Slat-edged bag 1a - eyelets and casing

I folded a 5mm hem at the top and then folded this over the ruler to see where the casing goes to, then basted this in place, leaving a section of each end free, so I can work the eyelets. (I could have just marked it, but this ensures it is the right size).

Then I marked the position of the hole at each end, removed the ruler and worked the first eyelet. It needs to be as large as the hole (mm) to reduce wear. I've used my large awl, then worked a quick round of spaced whip-stitches in doubled waxed linen thread to keep the hole open (using the awl as needed to keep it large). Then I whipped around the edge to finish it.

I put the ruler back in, then put the awl through the hole and the linen behind to mark the position, then worked that the same way. And the same for other pair of eyelets.

Then I removed the ruler and felled the casing - down one end and along the straight, then inserted the ruler and sewed up the other end. Then again for the other side.

At this point, I realised the side slits were a bit small, so I unpicked another 3cm on each side. And because I've cut the backstitches in the seam, I worked a buttonhole bar across each opening, to strengthen this critical point.

Next step, making the rope handles...

Slat-sided bag style 1a - flat square
This is a really common style, used by travellers, soldiers and schoolchildren. Worn on one cord across the body, or hanging from both cords.

They are roughly square, sometimes a little taller, often a little wider. I'd planned to make a larger one (and bought some 45cm rulers for the purpose), but the three extant examples I found are are smaller (36W, 28H; 30W, 34H; 35W 28H). Now I'm thinking I should have cut the larger rulers down to 35cm rather than using the smaller 30cm ones, but too late for this one! My linen is 35 x 70cm, the finished bag is 32W, 30H.

I've sewn the side seams by machine with a 15mm seam, leaving the top 12cm unsewn (if by hand, I'd use backstitch for strength). Then I've turned the seam allowances and basted - using the ruler underneath to avoid sewing the main fabric. Then I've felled these down using waxed linen thread.

I've drilled 8mm holes in the rulers and rounded everything off with sandpaper.

Next step is to mark the eyelets to match the holes in the slats and then work them.

More slat-sided bags!

After finishing the archery kit bag, I made some miniature versions to test my thoughts on patterns for the various types.

Now I'm going to make a full size version of each style and put the patterns and tutorial on my website, so other people can make them too.

Moniker commented on my kit bag project, suggesting wooden rulers would work well for people with less access to woodworking supplies and equipment. I think this is a GREAT idea, so I'm going to do that.

I'll be using some heavy linen, in line with extant examples and I might make a leather one too.

I love getting pictures of people wearing things I've made, and I just received this from Roman - wearing the Kolpak I made a couple of months ago.

It really suits him, but he does have to be careful going through doorways... :D

Project completed: Red Dockenbarett & Zöpfe (slashed hat & braids)

The inspiration for this headwear comes from Jörg Breu's painting of Augsburg Autumn. A woman stands with her back to the viewer, with her hair in plaits with red braid extensions down to her hips, and a red Dockenbarett (slashed Barett/hat).

Hip-length colourful silk Zöpfe (false braids) were worn by German women of all classes throughout the 16th century, with a Haarband (hairband) for unmarried women, or with some form of Barett (older women).

The Dockenbarett was also worn by men, especially middle class and the Landsknechte.

Zöpfe were made by a professional Zöpfmacher (braid-maker) and offered for sale at market stalls. The plain ones were cheap enough to be bought by peasants, with more expensive ones decorated with gold coins. Red was the most common colour.

In line with period practice, I made these from red silk, stuffed with wool rovings. They are joined in sets of 3 and plaited in with the braids, worn down the back.

For the Dockenbarett, I made an initial pattern in paper and then felt. I made the hat in red wool, doubled on the brim for added stiffness and lined with silk. The brim is still a bit upright, but will soften with wear (or I could steam it down).

I'm really pleased with how this turned out! And although I made this Dockenbarett and Zöpfe for someone else, I couldn't resist trying it all on with a wig and appropriate garb!

Research and tutorial at: https://rowantreeworkshop.com.au/1530s-red-dockenbarett-zopfe-hat-braids/2026/

Dockenbarett - last steps

I sewed from the inside through all the layers, avoiding visible stitches on the outside. Then I folded the edge over and felled it down over the opening. I checked it on the headform - fits well!

(At this stage I could make the hat larger by steaming the edge and stretching it. Or make it smaller by running a cord through the hem and tightening it.)

Finally, the lining. Merchant records refer to lined Dockenbaretten, so I've used my crown pattern to cut a lining in red silk. I sewed this up, pressed it and then slip-stitched it in around the brim.

Barett is done! Now for some good pictures...

Dockenbarett - main construction

I sewed the crown, then clipped and pressed the seams over my pressing ham. Because the wool is stiff, I felled the seams to the back of the wool inside the crown, then turned and pressed again.

Now to attach the brim to the crown.

I pinned the alternating ends of the strips to the crown, lining up the seams with the middle of the strips, then pinned the others in between - I had to trim a few millimetres off here and there. Then I basted these in place and machine-sewed them 1cm from the edge.

Next I turned the brim the right way out - quite a challenge with the doubled wool! Then I basted the brim to the crown, leaving the 1.5cm single layer clear.

Nearly done - I need to sew through all the layers, turn and sew the hem and line the hat.

Dockenbarett - problem solving

The red wool I have is wonderful for making hats - so well fulled (felted) it's hard to see the original weave. It's actually pool table felt, so it won't fray or rip!

But I was concerned it wasn't thick enough to support the brim loops, so I did a test - a small mock-up of two brim loops sewn to a crown segment.

As expected, much too soft! I solved this problem on my previous Dockenbarett by sticking two layers of wool together with bondweb, so I tested that with the red wool - perfect.

With this resolved, I cut out the crown and the outer brim sections, but did not cut the loops apart. I sewed up the CB (centre back) seam - the wool was strong enough to sew with a butted seam, which will minimise the visible seam on the outside.

I cut a second brim (piecing to save fabric) and applied bondweb to these pieces, then ironed on the second layer, offsetting the joins to overlap the CB seam. (This would have been MUCH easier to do before sewing the CB seam!)

With everything set, I cut the loops out - now they look like a single thick piece of wool!

Dockenbarett - mockup

I cut my test pattern out of heavy felt and sewed it up. This process ensures I can test the pattern shape, the size and the construction sequence before I cut the final fabric.

The pattern needs a few minor adjustments, but the test version is looking good!

The synthetic felt has the right amount of stiffness to work with the pattern, but my red wool is a bit thinner and a bit less springy. Fine for the crown and for the base of the brim, but not for the loops, which might sag too much.

Time to do some materials testing...

Back to the Dockenbarett - patterning

Now the video is out on the world (and being watched! ) I'm back to working on the Dockenbarett.

First step is a quick mockup in paper to check basic proportions. I'm using the crown pattern from my Schlappe rather than my usual 4 piece pattern, to match the softer/flatter look I see in the painting.

For the brim, I'm starting with simple loops of paper, although it will end up a continuous strip. Both the woman and man have 8 sections on the brim, so that's what I'm using.

This gave me enough info to start making a test pattern. Next step is to finish this, then test it in felt.